DEMO ON FLUID OR POURED ACRYLICS
You may have seen some videos on YouTube of this technique. That is how I got interested in doing it. I was searching for something new to depict my ocean scenes. There are a lot of videos to choose from, and they can get confusing to say the least. The best advice I can give you is go through them paying attention to the person doing the video. Each one has a different approach and if you see a style or method you like, then take note of that person and look for their videos. That way you learn a specific technique and it is not as confusing. The three people I recommend you follow are AnneMarie Ridderhof from Holland, Carl Mazur from California, and Caren Goodrich. Each of these is skilled and are good teachers. They also use sound methods that can be used to learn the technique. Others are easy to watch, but are more for entertainment than actual learning in my opinion.
I learned from these three, and then developed my own style. That is important to do if you want to do it as a profession. Each artist must come up with something that sets them apart from others if they want to be successful, just as in any business. It is also necessary and important to count the cost of doing this type of painting. It can be expensive to buy all the necessary equipment and supplies to get started. Below I have listed some of the things you will need to do fluid acrylics. That may help you in your decision. Also, keep in mind that you need a larger area to work in as you pour your paint, store your supplies, and a place to store your paintings while they cure.
Something else to keep in mind. ALL artists need a place to SAFELY store completed paintings.
If we just stack them against the wall or on shelves, they run the risk of being damaged from scratches, nicks, etc. I have in the past taken paintings to be hung and noticed, to my dismay, this type of damage as I hang them on the wall. It makes them hard to sell and is disappointing to say the least. Especially if the damage is to the canvas itself. A furniture polish with stain in it helps with scratches on the frame, but does not help the canvas. Bubble wrap around your paintings is good protection, and some artists build vertical shelves lined with carpet to store paintings. I save the bubble wrap from shipments I've received. It's not expensive to buy however from Walmart, etc.
As for damage such as a tear in the canvas, I will post on that later. Don't despair, it can be repaired!
Food grade torch and butane fuel, Benzomatic is a good name to look for
Large tray or commercial cookie sheet to catch surplus paint
Plastic sheeting, thick and heavy is best
Large and small culinary spatula used for spreading icing, etc, or palette knives for small canvas
PLENTY of paint! Don't use HEAVY BODY paint. Use the less expensive brands such as Artist Loft, Master's Touch, craft paints from Walmart, etc
FLOOD floetrol paint conditioner (Home Depot, Lowes) gallon or quart, or LIQUITEX pouring medium (much more expensive)
ELMERS glue - gallon or quart
Distilled water: get a squirt bottle to keep your water in so you can add water in small amounts as needed
Silicone (spray or liquid) look for treadmill lubricant, 3-in-1 oil, W-D 40: MUST SAY SILICONE!
Craft sticks for mixing: jumbo size is best but not absolutely necessary
Paper or plastic cups: be careful to look for smooth sides!
empty containers with lids (for leftover paint) try to find ones with the opening as large as the sides
blue painters tape, 2" wide, for deep canvases only
stick or push pins
lots of paper towels or rags
tarp or plastic for floor, or use LARGE pieces of cardboard shipping boxes, tape to floor to stabilize
table to work on
canvas or canvas panels, wood panels, masonite, actually, just about any hard surface can be used, including unglazed tile. NOTE: paint will not adhere well to GLAZED tile
tweezers: to pick out any small globs of paint or any impurities that may fall into the poured paint. (I have "had no-see-ums" land on wet paint and get stuck)
chop sticks or something similar to "draw" in paint if desired
Optional: micro glitter NOTE: Do NOT pour directly onto canvas, instead sprinkle onto your hand and sprinkle with your finger tips LIGHTLY, otherwise you may apply too much and ruin the painting
Table or shelves to set paintings on to dry for a week or two (need to cure thoroughly before varnishing!) The higher the humidity, the longer this process will take BEWARE: your canvas may feel dry, but underneath it is still soft and can be damaged by touch or too much movement!
clear GLOSS varnish, POLYCRYLIC liquid ($15) is great or Archival quality spray ($11)
It is important to know that you MUST clean off ALL silicone before varnishing your canvas!
To do that, simply wet a soft sponge with water and a drop of liquid soap, then squeeze out excess water and wipe canvas carefully. Repeat this process 2 or 3 times as needed, then dry with a soft cloth. A very small amount of paint may come off on your cloth. It is just what is imbedded in the silicone, and that is normal, so don't be alarmed. Let dry and then proceed with varnish spray or brush on liquid using a soft brush. I use at least 2 coats to protect the paint and get a nice shine. The varnish dries quickly, which is nice
Below is a photo from the demonstration. I have a video but it is in the process of being edited. I will post it when finished. Thank you for looking!
|We had a nice crowd of people! and lots of fun!